So, now we’re done, right? Yeah, pretty much. It is important that your mechanic takes the vehicle on a final test drive. This makes sure the job was done right and that the problem has been solved. Now its your turn. When you drive the vehicle make sure you are happy with the job. If not, be sure to give your mechanic the benefit of the doubt and let him fix your problem. Mistakes happen, you know? As a shop owner, it makes me happy to be given the opportunity to fix my mistakes. We learn from them. If my clients never return when they have a problem, I will never know that I screwed up. How can I fix a problem no one ever tells me about?
A couple of things to think about. If your car wobbles, the lugnuts were not tightened. Stop immediately and call the shop. A burning smell is not unusual from new brakes. Some pads have a coating on the surface that will be burned off in about a day or two. However, you should not experience any noise from new pads. Many shops will tell you that this is normal and that the pads need to be broken in. They will tell you that you can speed up this process by mashing on the brake several times. This is simply a bunch of BS! A quality pad should not make noise and does not need to be broken in.
Ask about any warranty on parts and labor. At our shop we give a lifetime warranty on our pads. We prefer to use a quality product and stand behind it. A quality pad will last a long time, allowing our clients to spend less money in the long run.
5 responses so far ↓
Steve from Ontario, Canada // February 24, 2008 at 5:53 pm |
Hello -
What would you do in this case?
My wife’s car’s right rear wheel was locking up, so we took it in to my mechanic. He replaced drums and shoes on both sides, and put in a new cylinder on one side.
She picks the car up, drives to a grocery store nearby. She comes home and tells me the cars’ brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and she had to crawl home using her emergency brake to stop at stop signs.
I go out to the car in the driveway and check the brake fluid reservoir. Almost empty. I go to the back of the car, look underneath and there is brake fluid pouring out near the drivers’ side rear wheel.
I haven’t confronted the mechanic yet, as we picked the car up as he was closing Saturday afternoon and does not open up until Monday morning. I did leave a message on his shop’s answering machine.
What would you do if you were the consumer? My wife could have taken her car on the highway or could have gone through a red light at a busy intersection.
ieat // February 25, 2008 at 4:33 pm |
Steve, first of all, give your mechanic the benefit of the doubt, since it could be a legitimate new problem that has developed. Otherwise, if a mistake was made, the shop should fix it and make some kind of amends.
A soft pedal normally is the result of one of three things.
1. Air in the brake system will cause a mushy pedal, but you would have noticed this immediately.
2. A fluid leak will cause a soft pedal since the hydraulic system is open.
3. A damaged hydraulic component (master cylinder, caliper, wheel cylinder, booster) can leak internally, causing a soft pedal.
Obviously, we’re looking at #2 here. You didn’t mention which cylinder was replaced, but my guess is that the old one is now leaking. This is not uncommon. We always suggest replacing wheel cylinders and calipers in pairs. Whatever caused one to leak will invariably cause the other to leak. Contaminated brake fluid can cause the seals to deteriorate. If one is leaking, the other will too. Also, now that the obvious leak has been fixed, the hydraulic system will find the next weakest link.
However, if it is the same cylinder, it may have been faulty.
Now, a rear wheel locking up could also be the result of a bad brake hose not allowing fluid to return to the master cylinder, or a faulty proportioning valve.
I would take it back to the original shop, but make sure to ask questions and look at parts if you are not satisfied. As I mentioned in a previous blog, you need to find a place you trust. However, I also feel that you need to give them the benefit of the doubt. If a genuine mistake was made, what did the shop do to fix it?
As a consumer, I realize that everyone makes mistakes (happens at restaurants all the time). I want to see what is done to correct and alleviate the problem.
Hope that helps!
Tony T. // October 1, 2008 at 1:29 am |
Hey, I have a question.
I got my brakes installed before I read your blog, but they did do everything correctly and even let me test drive with a mechanic after another mechanic came back from a test drive.
Here is my question, before my brake pad replacement, my emergency brake lever could go up to 6 or 7 clicks on one pull. Now, after brake pad install and drum cleaning, I can maybe get 5 clicks out of it. It’s too tight. I understand the cable might be too tight, but could installing new brakes cause the cable to tighten?
Is this normal?
Is this safe?
LOVE your blog, I have it bookmarked and forwarded the link to everyone I know!
Please, expand this blog to more categories!
ieat // November 26, 2008 at 10:06 pm |
Steve, sorry for the late reply. I definitely would have the mechanic look at the car again. I hate to diagnose things without looking at them, but I’m concerned about the brake lockup. Typically, this is a hydraulic problem with the master cylinder, more specifically, the proportioning valve. If it is not working properly it can force brake fluid to a wheel disproportionately and cause wheel lockup.
I’m assuming a wheel cylinder was replaced because it was leaking. Read my Hydraulics post for more info. Leaking hydraulic components typically fail due to contamination, mainly moisture. Water causes the rubber in these components to swell and degrade. Whatever caused the leak in one wheel cylinder will almost certainly cause leaks in other components.
Additionally, since the brake system is hydraulic, correcting a leak at the wheel cylinder will force fluid out of the next weakest part of the system, which is what it seems like happened to you.
Without all the details, I would venture to say that this problem was expected. We tend to sell hydraulic components in pairs (wheel cylinders, or calipers).
Give your mechanic the benefit of the doubt. At our shop, we like to educate as much as possible. If you were my client, you would have known this was a possibility.
ieat // November 26, 2008 at 10:10 pm |
Tony, same apology as with Steve. Whenever we replace brake shoes on drum systems, the hardware needs to be adjusted for a proper fit. There is a star wheel that is turned that will push the brake shoes outwards. The drum is fitted over the shoes and spun around. I’m looking for the drum to spin about 180 degrees. This tells me the shoes are as close to the drum as possible without drag. This adjustment will allow for the proper operation of your parking brake. What you experienced is normal, and expected.