So, let me give you a few examples of brake specials and what you get for it. There is a national chain that advertises brakes for $89.99, pads and labor. If you read the small print and can read between the lines, this price is for what is commonly referred to in the industry as a “pad slap.” A quick mechanic can “slap” pads on the front wheels and have you driving out in about 20 minutes. First of all, a quality brake pad is going to cost the shop between $29 to $45. When you add wages and other overhead, some shops will actually lose money on this job. Therefore, a much cheaper pad is used. In fact, the fine print says that the price is for organic or NAO (non-asbestos organic) pads. Two problems here. First of all, most vehicles do not call for organic pads. When you come in for your brake job you will be told that this price does not apply to you because the manufacturer calls for semi-metallic, or even ceramic pads. Second, if you are adamant about using the organic pads, they will wear down your rotors like crazy. Besides, these pads are almost guaranteed to make noise, its just part of their nature. They also create a lot of brake dust – not nice for pretty rims.

Moving on, this brake service normally does not include resurfacing the rotors or drums. Some say that resurfacing is not necessary if the rotor or drum is smooth. However, that rotor is married to the surface of the pad. There are fine imperfections created between the two that must be removed. Our belief is that a rotor or drum should be resurfaced every time pads or shoes are replaced to improve contact. Not doing so will result in faster and more uneven pad wear.

Additionally, this quick pad slap may result in the mechanic not lubricating or adjusting any of the hardware. This is more likely than not, due to the nature of the service being offered, and we see it all the time in our shop with stuck caliper pins.

Also, this service does not include a fluid flush to remove contaminants from the brake system.

Lastly, the disclaimer: “applies to most vehicles.” This is important. This service will not apply to a 4×4 vehicle or trucks with dual wheels in the rear. There are certain Accords and Civics, for example, that have a “trapped rotor” requiring extensive labor to remove the rotor. The offer probably will not apply to luxury vehicles, especially German cars on which it is difficult to find aftermarket brake pads. Be prepared for the worst when responding to these coupons. The service advisor may begin with a high estimate to give him room to come down substantially in price and still get your business. It is a terrible way to do business, I think.

Therefore, I normally call this type of service a “bait and switch.” You are lured by the cheap brake job (and it is cheap) and will normally be upsold and offered an estimate two to three times the coupon amount. If you are calling around, use the information you have learned in the previous posts and ask the right questions to make sure you are making a good comparison. Even better, find a shop that you trust so that you never have to worry about a diagnosis or an estimate.

When you ask for a phone estimate, make sure the advisor knows the year, make, and model of your vehicle, and if it is 4×4 as well.  Be wary of any shop giving you phone estimates without asking you this critical information.

Good questions to ask when getting an estimate:

• Is the price per axle, or all four wheels?
• What brand and line of brake pads are you using?
• Does the price include resurfacing rotors/drums?
• Does the price include a fluid flush?
• What kind of warranty do you offer on parts and labor?

A couple of things to think about. If your car wobbles, the lugnuts were not tightened. Stop immediately and call the shop. A burning smell is not unusual from new brakes. Some pads have a coating on the surface that will be burned off in about a day or two. However, you should not experience any noise from new pads. Many shops will tell you that this is normal and that the pads need to be broken in. They will tell you that you can speed up this process by mashing on the brake several times. This is simply a bunch of BS! A quality pad should not make noise and does not need to be broken in.

Ask about any warranty on parts and labor. At our shop we give a lifetime warranty on our pads. We prefer to use a quality product and stand behind it. A quality pad will last a long time, allowing our clients to spend less money in the long run.

A hub is the assembly that houses the wheel studs, so the rotor sits flush against it. Hubs really only need to be replaced for a couple of reasons. In the same way that a rotor can warp, a hub can as well, especially if the vehicle has been involved in an accident like hitting a curb. But, because warpage is possible, many manufacturers these days are recommending, if not requiring, that rotors be resurfaced on the vehicle with an “on-car lathe.” Instead of removing the rotor to resurface on a bench lathe, it is done on the vehicle with a different machine. If the hub is warped, the machine will automatically compensate for that when cutting the rotor to minimize or eliminate runout (remember that word?). Otherwise, a rotor cut on a bench lathe on which the warp has been cut out will be placed back on a warped hub, thus not solving the problem. Another reason a hub may need to be replaced is if a wheel stud is spinning in its hole. Since the hub is threaded to hold the stud in place, it will need to be replaced. The last reason to replace the hub is if the bearing is bad and it only comes as a hub/bearing assembly. These are expensive, and found on many cars.

A bearing is a ring of ball, or cylindrical, bearings. It is pressed into the back of the hub. When bearings start to go bad you may hear a grinding sound if the bearing is dry. Most of the time, bearing noise sounds like a low hum while driving, and may actually go away when turning left or right when force and pressure is relieved on that particular wheel. Many times, it is difficult to differentiate bearing noise from a bad tire. Therefore, there are two more ways to pinpoint this problem. In our shop we will elevate the suspicious wheel, put the engine in drive, and slowly press on the gas. If the sound is not there, then it must be a tire problem since the tire is no longer making contact with the ground. The third method involves raising the wheel, grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel, and trying to tip it in and out. If it moves at all, even a miniscule amount, the bearing has play and is causing the noise. If the grease in the bearing looks contaminated and the bearing is in good condition, expect to at least pay for a ‘clean and repack’ on the bearings to lengthen their lifespan. Be aware that some vehicles have inner and outer bearings (both should be inspected thoroughly), and some are pressed into a hub as described above. Trying to remove bearings from a hub assembly is possible, but will almost always damage the bearing.

People don’t normally associate these parts when they think of brakes, but they are important components to the proper operation of them as a whole. I just don’t want you to be surprised when this stuff comes up.

Lastly, we have seals. Almost always seals are associated with rear drum brakes. Some rear brakes (especially on duallys and Heavy Duty trucks) can only be worked on by completely removing the rear axle. The backing plate on the brakes normally has a small slit to look inside and check the thickness of the brake shoes. Most shops will not disassemble these rear brakes unless you are ready to pay. This brake job is expensive because there is a lot more labor involved, and since you will also need to replace the axle seals and the differential fluid that will be lost when the axle is pulled. This would be a great time to perform a differential service, which is on the factory scheduled maintenance list. The shop should remove the differential cover to completely drain the fluid and then reinstall it with a new gasket.

The same goes for rotors and drums. Many parts suppliers (AutoZone, O’Reilly) carry their particular brand (Bendix, Duralast, etc.) but they also carry a “house” brand. This is a product that is made according to the same specifications as the original equipment but may or may not be of the same quality. In general, we have found it okay to use the house brand for these parts. The higher grades might be reserved for someone who doesn’t mind spending a little extra to get higher quality, or for situations that might require it. Toyota trucks are notorious for warped rotors and greatly benefit from higher quality parts. If my client carries heavy loads or hauls a trailer, I would strongly recommend a better rotor or drum. We have always found that a quality pad makes the biggest difference in our client’s satisfaction.

If calipers, boosters, or master cylinders need to be replaced, opt for a remanufactured part if it is available. When shops buy these parts they always have to return the core, as they are rebuilt and resold. To date, our shop has never had a problem with remanufactured brake parts and they save our client quite a bit of money (many times, new parts are not even available). There are some places that will actually rebuild these parts at their shop, but it is unusual because it is time consuming and cheaper to just sell a reman product.

Once you say ‘go’ our technician will start the brake job. The first thing that will be done is to push back the caliper piston with either a small screw press or even a stout screw driver or pry bar. This loosens the pads and allows them to be removed. On drum brakes, the springs and clips are disassembled to remove the shoes. My personal opinion is that hose clamps should be used on all brake jobs, although many mechanics dispute this procedure’s effectiveness. When the piston is pushed back into the caliper, the bleeder screw should be opened first to allow the fluid in the caliper to be released. Otherwise, the fluid will be pushed back into the hose. This could be problematic if the fluid is contaminated because the fluid could be pushed back as far as the master cylinder, causing further damage. A hose clamp can prevent this altogether. In addition, a very small amount of air will get into the brake hose, minimizing the need for excessive brake bleeding to remove trapped air.

Now the rotors and drums can be resurfaced on the lathe. Many mechanics will mount these back on the car and clean them off with brake clean, a fast-drying petroleum based product. However, the best way to clean drums and rotors is to wash them with soap and water. Once the rotor is mounted the technician should apply a non-directional finish with a fine grit sanding wheel. This improves contact with the new brake pad. If the brake hardware is going to be reused it should be cleaned of all debris or washed in a parts washer if they are really bad. Prior to reassembly, the hardware and caliper pins should be lubricated. There are several products on the market, but we use a graphite or silicone based product. In reality, it is better to be lubricated with something rather than nothing. The hardware should be adjusted on a drum system to allow the drum to snugly fit over the shoes. After spinning the drum, it should only rotate about 180°, otherwise, it is too loose and the parking brake will not hold.

Once its all put back together, the piston needs to be pushed back out of the caliper. It is important to depress the brake pedal about an inch at a time until the pedal gets firm. Pushing the pedal to the floor may damage the master cylinder. A vacuum or pressure bleeder should be used to force brake fluid through the lines to remove any contaminated fluid and expel trapped air. If you remember from a previous post, air can be compressed and will result in a spongy feeling pedal. Once this is all done, the technician will take the vehicle for a final test drive to ensure everything is in proper working order.

The brake booster is normally mounted on the firewall inside the engine compartment in front of the steering wheel (its big and round). It uses vacuum from the engine to take the pressure of your foot on the brake pedal and multiply the force. A piston pushes into the master cylinder and forces brake fluid down the brake lines. In general, you will know the booster is bad because it no longer multiplies your foot’s pressure. It will feel real hard and stopping will be difficult. You will know the booster is going bad if you hear a “whooshing” sound when you press the brake, like air escaping. The brake pedal may still feel okay, but it is just a matter of time.

The master cylinder is mounted to the booster and it will have a cap on it where you fill the brake fluid. The technician should inspect the connections at the booster and at the hoses for any leaks. The master is really just a simple piston used to force brake fluid into the brake hoses, but its design is fairly complex. There are a series of seals and cut-outs that move brake fluid back and forth. Over time, these seals degenerate and allow brake fluid to seep past. One of the signs that this may be happening is a low or spongy pedal. It may go all the way to the floor, or sink slowly as you apply pressure. However, don’t let your mechanic condemn the master cylinder without first isolating it. With all of the brake hoses clamped off so that the brake fluid cannot move, the mechanic will step on the pedal. If it is firm and does not sink, then the master is in good shape (see note below on hose clamps). A final note about master cylinders: if it has the snap-on type of lid (vs. screw on) it will have a rubber gasket on the inside of the lid. Most of these lids have a very small opening at one end acting as a vent to allow air pressure to escape. If the gasket is put on backwards it will cover this hole. In addition, the lid needs to be installed so that the hole is on the high side (since air rises).

Calipers are the hydraulic component of disc brakes. When you step on the pedal, brake fluid is forced into the caliper which forces a piston to extend and push on the brake pad. When you let go of the pedal, the fluid returns and the piston should retract. External leaks are easy to see. However, an internal leak in the piston seal may not become evident until the caliper is actually removed and put back in place. To remove the caliper, the piston needs to be forced into the caliper. This is all fine and dandy. However, after the pads and caliper are reinstalled, the brake pedal needs to be depressed to force the piston back out. You may not know there is a problem with the caliper until this point. I hate when this happens because it now becomes an unforeseen expense to my client. There are two other visible signs that a caliper may need to be replaced even before starting. 1) If the pads are very low, especially metal to metal, the piston may have become overextended, preventing the piston from even being forced back into the caliper. 2) If one pad is a different thickness than the other pad this could indicate that the piston is not moving properly to allow both pads to create contact. 3) Signs of overheating on the rotor or pad (glazing) could also indicate damage to the piston. I have seen pistons warp from heat, thus creating problems when pushing it in or out. A final note on calipers, the pins have to be lubricated. This allows the caliper to float freely so that both pads make contact with the rotor. Stuck pins are the most common cause of the uneven pad wear described above. Be aware that the pins and their protective boots may need to be replaced if they are bent or torn.

Wheel cylinders are the hydraulic component of drum brakes. It looks like a small cylinder with rubber boots on either end. The brake fluid forces a piston on either side to push the brake shoes against the drum. A good technician will always peel the boot back to see if the cylinder is leaking. It may be holding fluid that has not leaked out yet.

A few words about brake fluid. First of all, it is highly corrosive. Don’t get it on your paint. Also, make sure that your mechanic does not have your expensive rims laying directly underneath the brakes, allowing brake fluid to leak on them. Now, brake fluid is designed to do a couple of things. Number one, it has a high boiling point, capable of taking the heat of hot brakes. Second, it is agroscopic – a fancy term meaning that it absorbs water. Water, or moisture, is the enemy of rubber seals, hoses, and gaskets in your brake system. Any water will immediately cause it to swell. As brake fluid begins to absorb water, it turns darker in color until it no longer does its job. A fluid flush should be standard on a brake job and is also on your factory scheduled maintenance list. [Side note: we had a client accidentally put coolant in his master cylinder. His brake system began leaking within a day. He had to replace his brake booster, master cylinder, both calipers, both wheel cylinders, and all rubber brake lines. Very, very expensive mistake.] So, back to the spongy pedal. Isaac Newton discovered that although air could be compressed, a liquid could not. If there is any air in the brake system, it will compress, causing a spongy pedal. That is why a technician should be thorough when diagnosing a low pedal. Sometimes, an inexpensive brake flush will solve your problem.

Lastly, the brake hoses. A collapsed brake hose is the hardest thing to diagnose since you can’t see inside of it. The inside may have a tear that allows fluid to travel to the caliper, but will close and not allow fluid to come back (veins and arteries operate this way so that blood goes in one direction, but not the other). If your mechanic uses hose clamps when doing a brake job, make sure it is specially designed for this application. Locking pliers can easily collapse the line. The clamp should have rounded edges to prevent damaging the hose. I think that using hose clamps is a great idea and prevents contaminated fluid from traveling back up the hoses when the pistons are pushed back.

Finally, the cause of most hydraulic problems comes from age and/or brake fluid contamination. Most manufacturers recommend flushing brake fluid every 30,000 miles, at least. Different conditions may dictate it be flushed sooner. Visually, it should look clear and slightly amber. A test strip can tell you how much moisture is in it, but dark or contaminated fluid is usually enough to tell you to replace it.

There is one more component to the brake inspection: bearings and seals. Read on to find out more.

Once the test drive has been performed the technician will lift the vehicle and remove the wheels. A good technician will always be attentive to any clues that may help him solve the problem. On front brakes (which are all disc and pad type, except for old cars) the rotors (discs), pads (the friction material), and the caliper (the hydraulic piston assembly that pushes the pads) are all clearly visible. On rear brakes (many of which are drum and shoe type) the drum will be removed to view the shoes and brake hardware. These drums are normally on fairly tight, so don’t be surprised to see a hammer taken to it to loosen it.

Now, let me walk you through what we are looking for when we look at brakes. First of all we will look at the thickness and condition of the brake pads and shoes. We normally recommend replacing friction material when it gets to 2/32″ (This is the same recommendation made by the Motorist Assurance Program (MAP), an industry recognized program that provides standards for the auto repair industry, and guidelines to give consumers information they need to make educated decisions about repairing their vehicle.). There are, however, several other conditions that may require the pads or shoes to be replaced. Cracked pads obviously need to be replaced. Even hairline cracks indicate overheating, which diminishes the effectiveness of the pad. Glazing is another indication of overheating and is another condition in which the pad should be replaced. A glazed pad will look really shiny because it has hardened. Grooving or scarring will also call for pad replacement since there is an uneven contact surface. Brake noise (squealing) from an otherwise good pad may just be produced simply by a low quality pad. We will only replace these pads if the client insists.

The rotor is the disc that the pad makes contact with to stop the vehicle (there is a pad on both sides of the rotor). The drum does the same job except that it is round with curved shoes on the inside. Similar problems are looked for here. Any cracking, pitting, or glazing indicates excessive heat. Replacement is recommended, although you might be able to get away with resurfacing a glazed rotor or drum. Rust is a major problem that may prevent any resurfacing from being done at all.

Rotors and drums should be carefully measured using micrometers. In many cases, these parts have the minimum acceptable thicknesses forged onto them. Otherwise, the technician should refer to the manufacturer’s specifications (either in a catalog or labor guide) which will tell him how much metal can be cut when resurfacing, and when the part should be discarded. Your technician should always present these numbers to you if they are recommending replacement. If you doubt that you are being told the truth, have the technician measure the rotor or drum in front of you (tip: make sure they zero out the micrometer before taking the reading). Each cut on a lathe, by the way, will remove about 3/1000″ (or .003). A badly grooved rotor, for example, may require several cuts to provide a smooth surface. If it is real bad, a smooth surface may not be achievable without cutting beyond the specifications.

One more problem with rotors and drums is warping (the technical term on a rotor is runout). Runout on front rotors can cause your front end to shake when you brake (side to side, or forwards and backwards), or you may feel your brake pedal pulsate up and down, especially at slower speeds. Warped rotors are caused by two things, generally: 1) Excessive heat can be generated from a rotor that has gotten too thin, or maybe even by riding the brakes. The heat can also increase when towing, or driving down steep inclines. 2) Over-torquing lugnuts will cause rotors to warp. Many shops do not use torque sticks to limit how tight lugnuts are installed. This is a pretty common problem overlooked by many mechanics.

Runout can be measured with a micrometer that mounts to a shock or body panel. If the runout (warp) is more than 3/1000″ (.003) it is normally recommended to replace the rotor. Sometimes, it is possible to cut the warp out of the rotor on a lathe, and we normally opt for this to save our clients money. A drum’s warp can be measured as well, but is more clearly visible by the wear pattern on the inside of the drum. A warped drum will normally show wear from the shoes on the short axis, but no wear on the long axis. Another problem that drums may suffer from is bell wear. This means that the diameter of the open end is smaller than the closed end. This can be seen if there is difficulty in reinstalling the drum over the shoes. Once on the shoes, however, the drum will spin freely, indicating that there is more space and no contact with the shoes. If there is enough thickness to the drum, this can be cut out on a lathe as well.

[A quick word about resurfacing. Some mechanics will tell you that resurfacing is not necessary if the surface of the rotor or drum looks smooth. However, that rotor, for example, is married to its pad, creating imperfections and fine grooving. Placing a new pad on an unresurfaced rotor will result in uneven contact and faster wear on the new pad. It is possible that you will experience brake noise as well. Our opinion is that rotors and drums should be resurfaced every time pads and shoes are replaced.]

Brake hardware is the third component completing this trifecta. On disc brakes, hardware is made up of clips and shims that hold the pad in place. Hardware doesn’t always need to be replaced. If it does not fit snugly in the caliper bracket, nor hold the pad firmly in place, it will move around and cause brake noise. On drum brakes, hardware is made up of several springs, plates, brackets, and adjusters. Again, it really only needs to be replaced if it is not doing its job anymore. If its rusty, count on it being replaced. Otherwise, don’t discount a good “clean and adjust.” The technician will thoroughly clean all brake dust, debris, and contaminants, lubricate the hardware, and adjust the hardware to ensure the parking brake works properly (tip: Can’t get an inspection sticker because your parking brake won’t hold? You may just need a clean and adjust.).

Most of the rip offs in the brake industry happen right here. A shop may sell pads or shoes unnecessarily, or will try to sell you rotors or drums even though they can still be resurfaced. Read on to discover more about the brake inspection that many shops don’t even look at.

* What kind of noise do you hear? Squealing? Grinding? Groaning? Clicking or clacking? Humming?

* When do you hear the noise? All the time? Only when you brake? On cold mornings? In reverse? Only when you brake and turn gently to the left (sounds dumb, but believe me, this helps)?

* Do you feel anything unusual when you brake? Vibration in the front of the vehicle? Pulsation in the pedal? Side to side movement in the steering wheel? Soft pedal? Sinking pedal? No pedal?

* When is the last time you had brakes done? Has anyone looked at this yet?

In my shop, the Service Manager will communicate this to the technician who will then be attuned to this information when he takes the vehicle on a test drive, the second step in a good brake job.

Unless it is painfully obvious there is a problem as soon as we step on the brake, the technician should drive the vehicle and try to reproduce the problem under various conditions. A good technician understands the sounds different components of the vehicle make and knows what certain problems feel like. Many times we have test driven vehicles to find a brake problem only to realize there is actually a suspension problem (or vice versa). If we cannot reproduce the problem we normally ask our client to drive the vehicle with the technician in the passenger seat.

This test drive is critical to pointing the technician a certain direction, and to identify any other problems that may be contributing to the complaint. Without the test drive, there is a strong possibility that your problem will not be solved, and you will be stuck paying for needless work.

There are so many places these days that you can get a brake job. Like oil changes, brake services are a commodity. They are very competitively priced and can even be done by your next door neighbor for a 6-pack of his favorite brew.

However, your safety rides on your brakes. If done improperly you could end up with irritating brake noise at the very least. In addition, poor quality parts may not last as long, leaving you to foot the bill on another brake job in as little as six months. On the other end of the spectrum, however, you could actually get in an accident. The problem for most people, however, is how do you know when you are getting a good brake job? How do the common folk (like me) know what really needs to be replaced and how much it should cost? Much less, how am I supposed to know anything about product brands? How do I know if a bad job has been done?

As a commodity, most people shop for brakes based solely on price. People have no commitment to any particular shop, as long as they can get the cheapest price. Right?

What ends up happening, however, are that shops resort to the old ‘bait and switch‘ to lure you in and charge you more than advertised, or simply use scare tactics to make you think you are unsafe if you continue driving the vehicle. They just want to make a buck (I mean, you’re not their regular customer anyway, so what do they care?). In addition, these shops prey on our ignorance. Similar to the medical industry, it is rare that we question our doctor’s diagnosis. We trust that with his training and experience, our ailments will be cured. How are we to know when they are guessing, or misdiagnosing? A mechanic can tell you that you need new pads, rotors, and calipers, but how can you question something you know nothing about?

In addition, brakes are complicated. There is far more to a brake system than what most people think. There are pads, shoes, rotors, drums, hardware, calipers, wheel cylinder, bearings, hubs, seals, hoses, and pistons, just to name a few parts. Then there is the terminology: friction material, floating rotor, trapped rotor, runout, micrometer, brake bleeding, quick take up valves, etc.

So, how do you sort through all of this and make wise and informed decisions? I am hoping that the next few Brake posts will help you understand this part of your vehicle better and prevent you from being ripped off. Although there are some technical sections, I tried to write things in a manner anyone can understand. Enjoy!

I bring this up because cars are like our bodies sometimes. My FIL’s doctor knew there was a problem, but could not see it without undergoing some preliminary work. When that exploratory surgery was done, it was discovered that the fix would involve several surgeries, a new knee, therapy, and medication. Similar situations happen with auto repair as well.

We had a 1997 Ford F-250 4×4 in recently for a routine front brake job. When the hub assembly was removed on the passenger side, however, we discovered that a retaining ring was mangled and the outer bearing was smashed on two sides. There is no way this can be seen until it is actually taken apart, and there was no indication during the test drive that these parts were damaged. Unfortunately, once it was disassembled, the broken parts could not be reinstalled. With the extra parts needed to complete the job, the invoice quickly ballooned to twice the original estimate. I hate when this happens to my clients, and I hated when it used to happen to me as a consumer. I always feel bad when this happens, even though this is nobody’s fault. My greatest concern is to retain the trust my client had when they first brought the vehicle in. I kept the parts to show them, I printed diagrams so they would know what I was talking about, and I didn’t charge any extra labor, only the cost of the parts. It is difficult to build trust with a new client when things like this happens. My hope is that they believe my sincerity and honesty and trust me with their truck just as my FIL trusted his doctor to open up his knee and look around.