Brakes: Part 4 (The “brake job”)

Once you’ve read the previous Parts posts, there is not actually much to say about the service itself. So, let’s focus on some basic procedures and parts quality.

Once you say ‘go’ our technician will start the brake job. The first thing that will be done is to push back the caliper piston with either a small screw press or even a stout screw driver or pry bar. This loosens the pads and allows them to be removed. On drum brakes, the springs and clips are disassembled to remove the shoes. My personal opinion is that hose clamps should be used on all brake jobs, although many mechanics dispute this procedure’s effectiveness.

What makes a good brake job?

[This post is the introduction to my series on getting a great brake job. Over the next few parts, I'll give you details, what to look for, what to expect, and when to run away.]

There are so many places these days that you can get a brake job. Like oil changes, brake services are a commodity. They are very competitively priced and can even be done by your next door neighbor for a 6-pack of his favorite brew.

However, your safety rides on your brakes. If done improperly you could end up with irritating brake noise at the very least. In addition, poor quality parts may not last as long, leaving you to foot the bill on another brake job in as little as six months. On the other end of the spectrum, however, you could actually get in an accident. The problem for most people, however, is how do you know when you are getting a good brake job? How do the common folk (like me) know what really needs to be replaced and how much it should cost? Much less, how am I supposed to know anything about product brands? How do I know if a bad job has been done?

As a commodity, most people shop for brakes based solely on price. People have no commitment to any particular shop, as long as they can get the cheapest price. Right?

What ends up happening, however, are that shops resort to the old ‘bait and switch‘ to lure you in